Book Description

The SuicideGirls adult-entertainment website mixes the edginess, smarts, and attitude of the best alternative music and culture sites with an unapologetic, grassroots approach to sexuality. It is "empowered erotica," in which women outside of mainstream culture showcase their unique personal styles on their own pages, where they put up sexy pinup-style photos of themselves, post a personal profile, and keep online journals in which they discuss daily experiences (both naughty and nice). In this way, they are in charge of their own image and how they are represented. The Girls are from all over the world, including the United States, Canada, England, Finland, and Sweden. In addition to journal entries selected from the site and over 200 artful X-rated color photos, the book contains an introduction by Missy Suicide about how she got involved with this revolutionary culture and started the website. ... Read more

Reviews (54)

Nude Vamps & Vixens
The SuicideGirls book is indicative of a new style of erotic photography emerging in society, changing the face of art, pin-up modeling, and modern-day softcore porn moguls such as Playboy.

Filled with pages of glamorous nude and semi-nude portraits, the models depicted are sensual, playful women, empowered by their sexuality. Atypical of most erotic photography, the SuicideGirls models are pierced, tattooed, dyed, taped, shaved, chained and otherwise exemplify an aesthetic born out of the alternative underground scene.

The book is prefaced with an introduction by Missy Suicide, the photographer for the book, and details the inspiration that made the book, the photographs, and the related website spring to life. The first 100 pages document Missy's photographic efforts, showcasing some of her more captivating shots from her work over the years. The last 50 pages feature stats written by the girls themselves, accompanied by self-portraits and journal entries showing off the diverse personalities and nationalities inherent in the book.

As an artist, I find the beauty of the SuicideGirls breathtaking, and find it difficult not to whip out a sketchpad every time I see the photographs. I recommend this book to anyone who appreciates female sexuality and nude art--you're sure not to be disappointed by the revolution that is the SuicideGirls.

Even better in print!
I've been looking forward to the SuicideGirls book for months now. When I finally got my copy I was pleasantly surprised at how good the pictures look in print. The quality is first-rate, with beautiful colors, nice shiny glossy pages, and a sturdy binding that seems worth much more than the super-cheap price. The book is divided into two sections: the first is pictures that Missy Suicide shot of the SuicideGirls and the second is self-portraits and profiles done by the girls themselves. If you like the SuicideGirls website, or even if you know nothing about the site but like beautiful pin-up photography of unique women, this book is for you!

If i only had a coffee table....
This is the book version of the suicidegirl.com website. The glossy pages are covered with your nongarden variety pin ups that will no doubt rock your world. I love it. Finally someone is publishing beautiful pictures of girls with brains in there heads instead on saline in their boobs. This book is for girls and guys who think that hardheaded opinated fring of society chicks are the best thing since s.. cake.

COULD SOMEONE HELP ME
I just recently discovered Suicide Girls online, and must say I'm very impressed. Suicide Girls is so much better than Playboy, for it displays MY type of girl: tattooed and pierced. But enough of that, I've noticed that some of the most attractive ladies are no longer with the site, and since the site doesn't offer archives, it's hard to come across older photos. I've noticed "Mary" on the cover, thus it's safe to assume she's inside the book, but I'm really interested if any spreads of "Nala" are inside, particularly photosets of her in the purple wig. That girl's a knockout. I'd appreciate the help, it really help to pursuade me to purchase the book. Thanks.

SuicideGirls Book Excellent
The Internet phenomenon of SuicideGirls.com is now available in the real world -- as a book. Glossy portraits of the girls adorn each page. Half the book are personal pages for the SG's -- journal entries, more pictures, facts and so on. The book is excellent! ... Read more

Book Description

The unstoppable, unforgettable André Leon Talley, Vogue magazine's editor at large, embodies the essence of the American spirit-the self-made man who has risen through the ranks of the elite high fashion industry with subtle perseverance, incomparable elegance, and a searing wit over the past three decades. "Style transcends race, class, and time," Talley explains; his inestimable influence can be seen everywhere, from the runways and the glossies to the backstage parties and the streets. Talley invites us to share in a year of his life in A.L.T. 365+, his first art monograph, designed by world-renowned art director Sam Shahid. Within the pages, Talley's photographs and text introduce us to the people and places he encounters along his travels around the world, be it among the devout perched along the front row of Fashion Week in New York, Paris, and Milan or seated with the faithful at the Good Friday services at Abyssinian Baptist Church, Harlem. A wonderful and warm family album, A.L.T. 365+ is inspired by Allure, the iconic volume of culture, personality, and style by Talley's beloved mentor, Diana Vreeland. Showcasing charmingly candid snapshots, taken with a Kodak one-time-use camera to lend a classic Warholian touch, along with revealing and intimate remembrances, A.L.T. 365+ is the only book to bring you the most illustrious players of our day living the life without thinking twice, all posing for Talley's camera-legendary designers Karl Lagerfeld, John Galliano, Miuccia Prada, Oscar de la Renta, Manolo Blahnik, Diane von Furstenberg, Tom Ford, Donatella Versace, Stella McCartney, Stephen Jones, and Zac Posen; famed models Iman, Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss, Linda Evangelista, Sophie Dahl, Stella Tennant, and Carmen Kass; superstar drag queens Lypsinka and Lady Bunny; hip hop icons Russell Simmons, Sean "P. Diddy" Combs, and Jay-Z; reigning divas Liza Minnelli, Diana Ross, Patti LaBelle, Mariah Carey, Beyoncé, Queen Latifah, and Boy George; among many others. Unvarnished, unairbrushed, and full of love, A.L.T. 365+ reveals a world where style is as style does. ... Read more

Book Description

The second edition of COSTUME DESIGN provides a basic introduction to costume design and takes students through the entire process of costume making, beginning with the idea for a costume to the final fit. The text is thoroughly illustrated, providing guidelines for the student for creating the figure and the costume design, examples of many styles of costume presentation, a guide to historical costume shapes, and scale drawings of the basic historical patterns with photos of them made up in muslin. Many theatre departments require all theatre majors take a course in costume design. ... Read more

Reviews (2)

Cletus is the man
I have Cletus as my design teacher at Carnegie Mellon University this year. I have looked at the book, and it is definitely worth using and referring to regularly. The main thing to know is that Cletus has done everything, knows everything and really, he is the end all source of theatre, costume and artistic information and advice. He got through Yale School of Drama Grad program without ever turning in anything late... think about that. Now why would you choose another book?

The only book to cover concept and craft
I have used this book as the text in my Costume Design class for years and find it is the only one to my knowledge that covers both the conceptual aspects of costuming for the theatre as well the craft of rendering and construct. It even addresses historical information briefly. I was saddened to hear that the book was out of print. I am hoping a new edition will be out soon ... Read more

Book Description

During his long and successful career, Christopher Makos has photographed the most beloved and intriguing icons of our time-Mick Jagger, Elizabeth Taylor, Salvador Dalí, John Lennon, and Andy Warhol, to name just a few. Now in a unique and original collaboration, Exhibitionism marks the genius of two of the world's most stylish and impeccable artists-Makos and Calvin Klein-convening to create a daringly evocative and intimately sensual portraiture of the male form. This extraordinary visual conversation began with Calvin Klein's visit to the photographer's studio, where the designer encountered a different side of the acclaimed photographer renowned for his images of Andy Warhol. Klein-one of the most influential fashion designers of the twentieth century-discovered a series of evocative portraits and powerful images that became the seed for this visually stunning project. Featuring over one hundred fifty photographs, ranging from brilliantly crisp black-and-whites to luscious colors to softly muted sepia-tones, Makos' photographs convey sophistication and naïveté in seamless combination. These incredible images do more than just accentuate the nubile qualities of beautiful bodies; they also elevate and personalize our timeless fascination with the erotic. Here, Makos seductively lures the viewer into a celebration of all that is intimately desired in and aroused by the male form in a manner so sensitive that it appeals to men and women alike.With each photograph hand-selected by both Makos and Klein, Exhibitionism is the most intimate reflection of their collaborative vision, and unlike anything seen on the market today. Calvin Klein has reached the pinnacle of success in the fashion world due, in large part, to his fluid ability to think "big picture" over the long-term, while also maintaining a profound attention for detail. The worlds of Makos and Klein intertwine in this exceptional exploration.Klein's sense of style and art and Makos' photographic eye pace, magnify, and inform each other. The result is a book every bit as sexy, intriguing, and daring as the men who created it. ... Read more

Reviews (2)

The best
Plain and simple this is the best fashion book to study!

Want To Understand The Fashion Biz?!
"From Concept to Consumer" is the first book I recommend to people who are truly interested in the business of fashion. Even though the book is a textbook it is an easy and fast read. One of the best features of this book is the sequential order format. The author takes you step by step through the development of the fashion process BEFORE a single garment is made by briefly describing fashion forcasting, research, color, fabric and trend analysis. The next process explains how raw materials for fabrics are chosen, processed and produced into textiles. Learn about the marketing of these textiles on the international market and to major apparel manufacturers. All of this takes place before the designer even starts to design a collection! Take a look inside the channels of garment distribution and on to us the consumer. This book provides a realistic insiders view in to the industry which is often glamorized by high profile designers and media spokespeople. Folks the business of fashion is a solid industry just like any other and in my opinion even more interesting than all the fluff and the sizzle. ... Read more

Book Description

World renowned makeup artist Francois Nars started photographing just two years ago. Deciding to art direct his own marketing campaign, Nars started casting and shooting models. The results were smashing: soon ads appeared in W, Harpers Bazaar, and Allure, featuring stunning full-frame images of strikingly elegant women, in very untraditional casting, showcasing his new, blazing hot NARS line of cosmetics.

The famed designer decided to expand his vision: create an enormous art book with over two hundred richly stylized presentations of elegance, featuring his favorite personalities from the worlds of fashion, design, film-even passersby on the street: people who personified to Nars the very notion of bold and audacious chic.

Nars then set about travelling the globe and inviting each individual to sit for him, styling each portrait session according to the sitters metier, personality, and elan. The results are simply stunning: 240 immense color portraits-creations, really-extracting the essence, as with an X ray, of the worlds most remarkable individuals: Alexandra Von Furstenberg, Alexander McQueen, Amber Valletta, Angelica Huston, Anna Sui, Betsy Bloomingdale, Boy George, Bridget Fonda, Dave Navarro, Donatella Versace, Eartha Kitt, Francesco Clemente, Grace Jones, Hamish Bowles, Isabella Rossellini, Ivanka Trump, Jacqueline de Ribes, Juliette Lewis, Kate Moss, Lauren Hutton, Lauryn Hill, Marc Jacobs, Paloma Picasso, Penny Marshall, Polly Mellen, Princess Marie-Chantal of Greece, RuPaul Charles, Stephanie Seymour, Sylvia Miles, The Divine David, Tim Burton, Verushka, and many, many others.

X-Ray is not fashion photography: it is a portraiture of style that is meta-fashion. ... Read more

Reviews (10)

An excellent example of the power of cosmetics.....
Francois Nars' first collection of portraits is a fascinating "read"(there's only a few pages of text). The images, the fantasy, the creative process are what is important.

Nars photographs his subjects simply, against a white background in most cases, although some have more extensive set work. The emphasis is on the face and of course, the makeup. The makeup is, in a word, stunning. Nars mixes wild and fanciful theatrical makeup with more subdued, practical makeup. Understandably, the wild makeup makes a deeper impression, but the range of the makeup highlights Nars' skill. My particular favorites are Shalom Harlow as Snow White(though I've seen a less graphic version of the portrait where's she's simply showing her garter, not her panties), Susan Sarandon looking stunning in wearable, pretty makeup, and the picture of a performance artist in full-body makeup with wild wig and face. There is full frontal nudity in this book, but it is not portrayed in a sexual way. In fact, if anything, many of the subjects who are fully clothed are more sexual than the nude ones.

It's hard to judge Nars' caliber as a photographer. Are the photos stunning, or is it simply what the pictures are of that makes them so intriguing? It's a fine line, but the pictures are playful, attractive, and well thought out. The subjects are famous people, many presented in a new and different way then we've seen them before. I definitely would advise people to check it out.

A portrait photo book of models & adult images
This is a large 11 x 15 book of portraits of 241 subjects. The book is attractively printed in Italy. There basically is little writing: a one page introduction by Andre Leon Talley and a one page end by Nars. It is in summary not a thing of beauty but a freak show. The makeup looks like circus grease paint. Nars writes: "Though I worked for years with some of photography's greatest artists, I never planned to be a photographer. It happened naturally when I started my makeup line in 1994 and needed to create an image for the product. Having no budget for a star photographer, I decided to do it myself." Big mistake. Nars should have remained a makeup artist. His idea of portraiture is white backgrounds and light tent even lighting which really is product photography lighting. Models like Karen Elson who appears in the Nars catalogue are shown in unattractive poses sucking on a cigarette and looking plain. Joceyln Wildenstein is a subject next to a model dressed up as little red ridding hood. There is a particular attraction to head on full frontal male nudity. Grace Jones is shown grabbing her crotch. Smokey eye makeup is highlighted on the boys. And a young teen "school girl" is shown suggestively in lingerie. It is hard for me to believe that the majority of purchasers of Nars' makeup would want to look like the images in this book and I find the release of this book ironic at the same time Nars has a national magazine highlighting his digital makeovers. This is definitely an "adult" book with images some may find offensive.

X - Ray
This book is amazing. The subjects used are surreal. The effect Nars gives is futuristic and sexy. His portraits are spectacular. At first glance, the collection may seem overwhelming, but concentrating on each picture made the book very enjoyable to look at. I recommend this to any collection of photography books.

Great Makeup, ok pictures
The makeup in this book is great, the book is also great, the only thing I dont like is as a photography who does beauty photography I see no change in camera angle. All pictures are shot from one position. But all and all it is an amazing book.

Amazing- Pure talent
After looking at the amazing photographs in X-Ray, I wanted more, the book is awesome and the pictures vary vastly from page to page. I have two words for you Pure Talent! ... Read more

Reviews (8)

Better than store bought
I only wish he would write a book about pants making or tailoring! This is my ultimate reference for shirt sewing! I have had it for over 6 years and I still pull it out every time I make a new shirt. I still use his placket pattern and instructions. It is beautifully illustrated and includes not only better-than-store-bought details like flat felled seams and quality interfacings, but some really interesting design ideas.
Only 1 thing! source info in the back is out of date. If you are near Houston, try "High Fashion Fabric" for the best cottons.

Shirtmaking taken to new heights!
I have all the deepest respect for David Coffin. He has meticulously studied every aspect of making the classic men's shirt and has taught himself how to reproduce the techniques of the finest couture houses. In addition to his skill at sewing, he demonstrates his artistic strengths through his personally-illustrated drawings which show the techniques in great detail. In fact, "detail" would be Mr. Coffin's signature strength. His ability to relay the information in straightforward, efficient language seems to be a natural extension of his talents. Incidentally, I could not find a single spelling, grammar or other editorial error anywhere in this book. I think that seems like a perfect example of the manner in which Mr. Coffin approaches his work.

The best sewing book I've ever bought!
As a woman who has a terrible time finding clothes to fit, I've tried sewing some of my own, with less than satisfactory results. Even after learning to regrade commercial patterns to fit, the finished garments never looked right--they all screamed "Hi there! I'm like, totally homemade!" As basic a garment as a shirt was an exercise in frustration; after struggling to get collars and cuffs to look "right" I was about to give up entirely.

In _Shirtmaking_, David Page Coffin addressed every single problem I have faced, and now I can actually turn out tailored shirts that both fit me *and* look like they were made by a professional. All the questions left unanswered by the instruction sheets included with commercial patterns were addressed in this book, and along the way Coffin also answers a lot of general questions I had about sewing that are ignored in most books aimed at home sewers. _Shirtmaking_ is clearly written, and with a bit of patience and the ability to follow directions an intermediate-level sewer can turn out a successful garment. While the specific focus of the book is sewing men's shirts, the exact same sewing techniques can be used on women's shirts and blouses, and Coffin provides plenty of illustrations and examples.

Coffin covers his subject so thoroughly and precisely that he comes across as a bit fussy, but this sort of fussiness is a virtue and a godsend. There is an embarrassing number of sewing books gathering dust on my shelves, but I still refer to _Shirtmaking_ frequently. It is *by far* the single most useful sewing book I've ever bought, and is well worth the money.

Outstanding book on sewing for men
As someone who is mostly interested in sewing clothes for myself (a man) I feel gypped by most sewing books that are 75% concerned with specific construction techniques for women's clothing. Finally a book where the variations for women are in effect relegated to sidebars. The author of this book, David Page Coffin, is the Senior Editor of Threads magazine, probably the best of the sewing magazines (not perfect, but at least not packed with quilting and baby clothes). Coffin is a former painter who taught himself how to sew and has made his own shirts for a couple of decades. The fact that he comes from a self-taught amateur background but is a sewing journalist who has interviewed custom shirtmakers and watched them at work gives this book a good balance. Coffin is something of a shirt fetishist, and he includes information on the historical development of the "classic dress shirt" as well as photographs of various vintage ready-to-wear and designer shirts and shirt collars (yes, he goes into how you can make shirts with detachable collars). At points he sounds like some sort of shirt archaeologist, for example, teling us that a particular vintage custom shirt he has in his "collection" used a pieced sleeve to save on fabric costs. Coffin describes his own methods in detail, but makes the point that there is more than one way to do things. The book is beautifully designed and illustrated (drawings by the author), and full-sized patterns for various pieces like collars, cuffs, and plackets are included. I can't emphasized how excited I was to find a book like this, and I have the video on order.

Truly an amazing book.
I don't usually like sewing books-they're generally repetitive and contain little new information-but this is an exception. The author gives an incredible wealth of detail on the history and technique of shirtmaking. His patternmaking, stitching, cutting, layout and constuction techniques are well worth the price, and should prove beneficial to anyone who sews.

It is not for beginners-it assumes the reader has mastered basic sewing skills-but any competent sewer should have no problems. I especially like that it focused primarily on men's shirts-so very, very few books even bother to mention sewing for men. ... Read more

Reviews (3)

finishes the story of 1939
This book is a tour de force narrative of the modern world, using, of all things, fashion as the yardstick. Dr. Handley has shown with firm authority the relevance of fashion to everyday living using copious, well-chosen examples from haute couture, pop, and ready-to-wear markets to elucidate the link between these markets and the amazing marketing and technical campaigns of du Pont and Imperial Chemical Industries. The role of plastics in today's world starts with nylon, and the introduction of synthetic fibers. This story is seldom told, and by being sympathetic to all participants in this saga, Handley weaves an excellent story. The chemical details are weak, but everything else in this book is great.

!
This is an incredibly well-researched, well-written, and interesting book on an obscure topic. The photographs included are amusing and helpful.

Fabric Into Fashion
Which do you prefer, synthetic or natural? The answer is obvious to everyone, but on closer examination, the question becomes cloudy. Take fibers, for instance. There has been a boom in cotton and even hemp clothing because it is "natural," but then one has to consider the artificial fertilizers used and all the insecticides poured on the land to make the plants to make the textile. "Polyester" is something of a bad word to many people, as it is a synthetic, but it comes from petroleum derivatives, remnants of plants that are millions of years old rather than grown last season. Ever since artificial fibers were invented, there has been a see-saw of taste for them and against, for sensible reasons and for irrational ones. The history of this see-saw forms much of the story in _Nylon: The Story of a Fashion Revolution_ by Susannah Handley.

In the US, the story of artificial fibers has been the story of Du Pont. Dupont made gunpowder in the nineteenth century, and boomed during WWI, but it had an image problem after the war. "Better Living Through Chemistry" became the slogan, and the better living was going to start, of all things, with better stockings. There was a wildly fluctuating silk market based on imports from Japan; American women were buying 1.55 million pairs of silk stockings a day. The Japanese cornering of the market was resented by the American government and citizens, but that didn't curb the appetite for silk.

Stockings were a huge market, but Du Pont dragged the textile industry into re-inventing their stagnating wares. Nylon for dresses, nylon for wedding gowns, nylon for everything possible was advertised by Du Pont, and synthetics were linked to fashion forever. Polyester and Dacron, launched in the fifties, were light and resistant to stains and wrinkles. Sales of irons went down, sales of washers and dryers went up. There was a positive image of scientists taking part in fashion and popular culture.

Synthetics drastically affected even the couture of the Paris salons. The post-war cultural shifts meant that the salons could not continue to exist on a small number of wealthy clients, but had to start licensing such things as perfumes and ready-to-wear clothes. The sixties had a vogue for all sorts of technological materials, and especially for synthetic fashions. Du Pont worked hard to integrate its fibers into fabric manufacture and fashion design. It commissioned top fashion photographers to photograph synthetic fashions and sent the results out as press releases, a free publicity outlet to French couturiers. In America, 20 of the 21 layers in the Apollo moon suits were Du Pont fabrics originally developed "for earthbound use," and Du Pont encouraged "spacey" looking designs in clothes. Synthetics were pitched to the youth market, which had no prejudice that they were inferior to the "real" thing.

There was a bust. Polyester and nylon were in everything. Polyester especially peaked in John Travolta's disco leisure suit, and has had a bad reputation ever since. Overproduction of synthetics caused a classic boom and bust; with so many wonder fibers, people were free to notice that they caused static, retained moisture, and yellowed in perspiration. Natural fibers became more fashionable, both because of the ecology movement and because with more money, people could afford the extra cost of washing and ironing them. Raw materials for synthetics became more costly with the gas crisis. Attempts to shore up synthetics in the fashion industry were unsuccessful, and they took their places mostly in blends.

All things come full circle. Engineered fibers were reintroduced to European fashion in the eighties by none other than the Japanese. They married amazing new microfibres and the ancient craft of textile making, to produce brand new forms of cloth. Sculptural textures are formed by blending fibers of different shrink ratios and popping them into a hot dryer. Metallic films are imbedded into the threads. Even stainless steel could coat the fabrics. The Japanese recognized that silk has a desirable audible quality when it rubs on itself (called "scrooping"); new fibers passed sound-wave tests to verify that they scrooped satisfactorily. Next up: clothes that change colors or other properties based on heat, moisture, or anxiety levels, or wearable computers that control the appearance of the cloth. Will these be the next objects of desire, and if so, will they become just another burned out fad? Predict fashions accurately, and get rich.

_Nylon_ is a lively history of modern technology and fashion. Handley covers engineering, advertising, and fashion house philosophy with insight. The excitement, disillusionment, and excitement again of synthetic fabrics is a surprisingly alluring topic. Her book is beautifully illustrated with many historic advertisements, fashion model shots (both beautiful and absurd), and pictures of such novelties as the two ton leg in a huge nylon stocking to advertise a Los Angeles hosiery shop. ... Read more

Book Description

Everyone knows the name Ralph Lauren. Many peopleknow that he was born Ralphie Lifshitz. But not even Lauren himself knows the extra-ordinary history of his ancestry. And until now, no one really knew how this pint-size nebbish rose from the Jewish ghetto of the Bronx and turned himself from a yarmulke-topped yeshiva boy into the world's leading purveyor of old-money-WASP style. Genuine Authentic is that story.

Horatio Alger, step aside. Lauren, the descendant of generations of eastern European rabbis, is the embodiment of modern ambition. He stands as a symbol of the awesome rewards of self-invention -- and not just because he turned a talent for designing ties into a ten-billion-dollar international business. He also demonstrates how precarious success is, how hard a road life can be even for the driven.

Lauren is considered by many to be a phony and a copycat. Yet even though he made up his name and nearly went bankrupt trying to live up to it, he can't be dismissed as a mere fake. His products have revolutionized the way almost everything is sold and the way great brands are built. Like Henry Ford and Walt Disney, he's also a real American authentic. And his business is a stunning American success.

There are at least two Ralph Laurens. To the public he's a gentle, modest, yet secure and purposeful man. Inside the walls of Polo Ralph Lauren, though, he's seen by some as a narcissist, an insecure ditherer, and at times a rampaging tyrant.

Michael Gross, author of the bestseller Model, lays bare the truths of this fashion emperor's rise, and reveals not only the secrets of his stunning success in marketing our shared fantasies but also the darker side that's hidden behind the shiny patrician image.

Gross uncovers the essence of Lauren's carefully cultivated mystique: how he has turned his back on his own surprisingly aristocratic heritage to embrace another, more commercially viable, one; how he's built an image of luxury and wealth on a foundation of almost anonymous commodities, basic items of clothing like polo shirts and khaki pants, sold mostly in low-priced outlets, and seen everywhere from the subway to the world stage.

It wasn't easy. Along the way, Lauren conquered self-doubt and survived business reverses, even several brushes with bankruptcy. Genuine Authentic follows Lauren through an unhappy childhood and confused adolescence -- torn between an immigrant culture and his material desires -- to fame as a gray-haired thirty-something, and, finally, to the man he is today.

In recent years, after surviving brain tumor surgery, Lauren suffered from a massive midlife crisis, finding solace with a beautiful blond model. He survived that, too, and in the nineties took his company public, making him a billionaire but creating a whole new set of challenges to confront, new horizons to conquer, starting with Wall Street, and then on to the rest of the world.

Phony? Or the real thing? It's all here. You decide.

Reviews (8)

Well Worth Reading
I agree with other reviewers who complained that there were not enough pictures and that one could hardly avoid getting confused about all of the different names in Gross's book. It probably is not Gross's fault but to write about Lauren without plentiful photographs is a disservice to any reader. Gotta give it to Gross though. His report is thorough. He deserves 4 stars. His publisher deserves 2 stars.

The book is well worth reading for the education it gives the reader about the clothing business and "designer" labels as well as the telling insights into RL himself. In short, RL has cashed in on the preppy WASP persona but, to this day, doesn't really "get it" himself. Upon being questioned about art in his "WASP" designed house, he cannot identify artists on his wall and brags that he just goes by "feel." Clearly, he doesn't understand that the way of life he imitates includes education and culture, neither of which he has to this very day.

The book is also a wonderful education for the clothes buyer. You know those outlet bargains? I guess they are not, since a whole line goes straight from the factory to the outlet. Did you think that you were the only one who did not buy the $100 blouse at the department store? Looks like no one else buys much either. The money gets made from those pique shirts. Buyer beware.

Shame On Who?
I wonder if "reader" who wrote the first review below works for Ralph Lauren. I bet so. What a personal attack on someone who has obviously worked hard to write a balanced, thorough and honest book. Which this is. Despite Lauren's flip-flopping, first asking for a biography with integrity, then refusing to cooperate when the writer tried to give him what he wanted--a story told in the hysterically funny and revealing author's note at the beginning of the book--Gross not only illuminates Ralph Lauren's business, but also his complex and fascinating character, his tremendous drive and entrepreneurial spirit and the whole world of fashion. He should be proud--not ashamed. And Lauren should count himself lucky that he got a biography of such a high caliber.

Fairly good review of Lauren's work
The book gives a fairly good overview of the major stages of Lauren's life and accomplishments. While the chronology is fairly informative, I feel that it focuses more heavily on the personal relationships in Lauren's life. The book falls short in its description of the creative process that Lauren uses and the source of his inspiration and his ability to reinvent itself. The discussion on the business and financial aspects of Lauren's success is fit more for a magazine article than a serouos biographical study -- don't look for any insights here either.

Very disappointing! Glad I didn't buy it.
How can anyone write a fashion book with so few photographs? When you're talking about a particular RL collection or ad campaign and whether it was successful or not, the reader wants to be reminded of what the "Prairie" look was, or the Annie-Hall inspired collection, or the NY Times advertising spread, or whatever. And there are almost no pictures of any of the many players involved, which contributes to the reader's difficulty in keeping all the names straight. The book is obviously intended as a hatchet job -- there are constant, snippy reminders of how narcissistic and perfectionistic he is, but reading between the lines, you also get the impression that there ARE some people who LIKE to work for him. I am no big fan of Lauren's, but Gross obviously has a vendetta against him. Too bad, because this boring book could have been really interesting.
And, in response to the comment by another reviewer: NO, I do NOT work for Ralph Lauren! I don't even buy his clothes! I am just interested in the fashion industry, and there are many other, better fashion books. (And, BTW, I liked Gross's "Models" book.)

Mass-querading as Class
"Clearly, people want things that make their lives the way they wish they were." That's a quote that always appeared at the front of the J. Peterman catalogue--the one that was immortalized on "Seinfeld." It's an excellent piece of marketing advice, and Ralph Lauren understood it and capitalized on it. I'm stating the obvious.

First, I'll give credit to Ralph (Lifschitz) Lauren for being so clever as to repackage the classics and build an empire based on the Great WASP way of life--the one that so many people aspire to. It was brilliant, and if I had been the one to pull it off, I would smile all the way to the bank.

Secondly, I give well-deserved credit to Michael Gross for sweeping away the pixie dust and writing about what is actually behind this purveyor of "lifestyle goods." I wouldn't say that there are a great number of surprises; rather, the story he tells confirms (in detail) what most of us already know--that the fashion industry is so much smoke and mirrors, and why would Ralph be any different? He hasn't been innovative and shocking in the way that you see styles emerge from other designers, but he chose to reinvent himself and at the same time, package it all quite nicely and ready-to-consume by the insecure masses.

Michael Gross reveals that the real money in the Lauren company is made on khakis and polo shirts and that Ralph may be out of touch with who his customer really is. That polo shirt with the pony logo shows up on the backs of so many beefy, paunchy, male members of the corportate bourgeousie (middle class strivers) as opposed to those of the old Blue Book families for whom L.L. Bean is just fine, thank you. I recall once seeing a Ralph Lauren navy blazer for women with this obtrusive gold "Ralph Lauren" crest on the chest and thinking, "You must be kidding. That's downright embarrassing."

So, why would you want to read this book?

1. There's an all-American Horatio Alger type story within these pages.

2. You'll see how one man pulled all this off, and read about the realities and the pitfalls of his journey from the Bronx to his vast stage-set estates.

3. Learn something about the rag trade and licensing. Your own closet may not look the same upon close examination.

4. Realize that "discontent is the cornerstone of our consumer culture." (Sorry, I can't remember who said that.) The need to express status runs deep, and people in social distress often consume their way into "meaning." It can be costly to be a victim.

5. Dig a little deeper into this story and see that it is truly an authentic American tale based on choreographed gentility (down to the last threadbare oriental rug). The Ralph Lauren stores are pretty, and the ambience romances the all the stuff nicely, but be aware that it's all facade--a "fop house."

In summary, this book was interesting and worth the read. I'll let Henry James have the last word here:

"You are rich if you can meet the needs of your imagination." ... Read more

Reviews (4)

A Good Start, but....
This book had an amazing amount of potential, but was less than satisfying in the end. The history, while very interesting, was disjointed and unorganized. The layout could also have used some reworking. Descriptions of art works, outfits or accessories would appear several pages after the photos themselves. I got the impression that some photos never made it to the final book, although the text still made reference to them.

This book is also frustrating for the historical costumer. Ms. Yang often used the phrase, "This style was popular during the Shilla period." Unfortunately, the Shilla period spanned almost 1000 years! Some more definitive dates would have been highly useful.

Ms. Yang's book is a nice introduction for the style and overall look of the hanbok. Hopefully Ms. Yang or someone who shares her passion will publish a more scholarly work geared for historians and costumers.

Good Effort But "Hanbok" Falls Short
I applaud Mrs. Yang's effort in publishing this book because there is just so scant "exposure" of Korean culture in this catagory (fashion art). I appreciated the history in the book as well, though, I thought much of the beginning history of Korea (which was of considerable length) could have been edited out as it really didn't relate to the "art" of Korean clothing. On the other hand, there was not enough mention of the Chinese-Korean relationship in history which influenced the evolution of Korean costume, especially in men's clothing. Also the historical element of this book was weak. Mostly, however, the cover of this book is misleading: I expected to see many more of the ceremonial gowns worn by women of the royal palace. The cover shows a model with a regal dress with many fancy adornments. Inside the book, there are only a few of the color photos of this type of dressing and they are distant photos that you really can't make out much details. I maybe too picky but I thought many photos were lackluster and did not relay the rich colors of hanbok, diversity and versatility of modern hanbok, and mostly the culturalism hanbok embodies for the people of Korea. I would have liked many more quality photos, detailed hanbok making procedure, and more children in hanbok (of course!). Then, the book would be worth the substantial cost.

Hanbok, The Art of Korean Clothing
Hanbok, The Art of Korean Clothing, by Sunni Yang, is a wonderful resource for anyone who wants to learn more about the beautiful Korean hanbok. It is filled with wonderful color photographs of hanboks and hanbok accessories. It also explains many of the customs and symbols associated with the hanbok. This is a must read for any true student of the Korean Hanbok.

More enthusiasm than discipline
Mrs. Yang's love and admiration for the beauty of Korean costume, and the book abounds with gorgeous , full-color photographs of hanbok, or native Korean garb. Unfortunately, information on the evolution of hanbok is sparse and difficult to tease out of the text. This appears to be, in large part, due to an actual shortage of data, but this too is difficult to confirm from the text. A more systematic discussion of the sources of available information on Korean costume, and greater attention to chronology in the text, will be desired by costume scholars, though most casual readers will find ample enjoyment in the wonderful photographs of beautiful silk garments. ... Read more

Book Description

Reviews (1)

Only in America, and Only in Texas!
A few years ago, a friend of mine moved to San Antonio, Texas.Every year at the end of April, San Antonio holds "Fiesta Week" and the one of the main events is the Coronation of the Queen of the Order of the Alamo.The Queen, the Princess and 24 Duchesses display the most unbelievable gowns made anywhere -- the trains alone are many feet long, and are covered with beads and rhinestones, all to illustrate an aspect of the theme of that year's coronation.But that's just the tip of the iceberg.

This book is a serious sociological study of this event and its history, but it also sheds light on the context of Coronation within the history of San Antonio, with some surprising aspects -- read about "El Rey Feo", and the Hispanic community's response to Coronation.It is fascinating start to finish, and could only be improved by the addition of more illustrations. ... Read more

Book Description

In the late 19th century, women wore bustles, corsets, and ankle-length petticoats under skirts that swept the ground. By the 1930s, some of the same women were wearing trousers, short skirts, and simple draped dresses. Nowhere is this extraordinary transition more beautifully and extensively documented than in the wardrobe of Queen Maud of Norway, the granddaughter of England's Queen Victoria. One of the best-dressed women of her age, she took every opportunity to indulge her passion for clothes.

Style and Splendour showcases some of Queen Maud's most spectacular garments. Using photographs of her magnificent clothes and accessories, most made by the foremost designers of her day and now preserved in Oslo, the book tells the story of the evolution of women's fashion from the 1890s to the 1930s. AUTHOR BIO: Anne Kjellberg is curator of Queen Maud's collection at the National Museum of Art/Museum of Decorative Arts and Design in Oslo. Susan North is curator in the Department of Furniture, Textiles and Dress at the V&A and author of Historical Fashion in Detail. ... Read more

Book Description

Place all the fashion photographs taken in a given year end to end, and what you have is a very long, very misleading footpath back to the blunt centre.Alternately, every year Fashion Images de Mode filters out the same-old-same-old set pieces and the rehashed mediocrity to deliver the cutting edge of world fashion images - all in one building.Globally recognized as a leading brand in fashion and photography, the rigorously selected shoots form a style bible for the year, crossed with a crystal ball into the coming seasons.Edited by Lisa Lovatt-Smith, this year's deluxe swagbag of sexy, shouty and brilliantly subtle victories for human decor features a meditation on the fine art of androgyny by Mariuccia Casadio with illustrations from Annette Aurell, an in-depth look at the legacy of Jean Loup Sieff by Tiggy Maconochie and the personal choice of uber-chic photographer Terry Richardson.With a preface by Rankin and photographic contributions from David LaChapelle, Elaine Constantine, Katerina Jebb, Andrea Giacobbe, Warren du Preez and Nick Thornton Jones, this year's publication is as haute directional as it gets.Fashion Images de Mode: a thing of beauty and a resource forever. ... Read more

Reviews (1)

FANTASTIC! THIS IS ART.... UNIQUE... plastic@uoe.com.ve
Este libro es fantastico,fotografías espectaculares, el diseño gráfico es ingenioso, este libro contiene una excelente recopilación de fotos de fashion muy buena (sobre todo las fotos realizadas por Jean-Baptiste Mondino), además se nota que el criterio de selección de fotos es netamente artistico y no comercial como suele suceder con los libros de fotografías cuyo tema central es la moda que no son nada artisticos ni de buen gusto solo lo hacen por vender mas una cierta marca de ropa....Este libro resumen en imagenes gran parte de la apertura visual y el rompimiento de esquemas de la moda.... Imagenes muy bellas y ademas imagenes bien heavy/hardcore de las modelos... si lo consiguen comprenlo... if you find it buy it! it's great... buy it! ... Read more

Reviews (2)

Fascinating and Informative
I have always been interested in costume design and role playing. Footwear is an area that seems to be the most neglected when attempting to re-create a costume from a past era. For those who strive for accuracy in putting together the perfect historical outfit, or even if you just have an interest in shoes in general, this book fits the bill. Wonderful, colorful photos, a highly readable text detailing the history of the crazy world of footwear--the book covers everything involved with shoes and answers most questions the reader may have. From the grotesque to the mundane, we are presented with styles that run the gamut from shoes of leather and iron (ouch!) to platform soles of 12 inches or more. What is surprising is that some styles are still with us today, modernized but still very recognizable. We also learn the painful lengths that people will go for the sake of fashion. Time has changed nothing in this regard, as we still wobble around on stilleto heels and end up with bunions, corns or worse--but we still look marvelous, darling!!! Seriously, if you love to learn about footwear, like to dress in period attire, or are simply a "shoe freak", don't hesitate to buy this book. You won't be disappointed.

Informative, a good read.
An interesting, informative book, full of historic details and colourful pictures. From court shoes of Henry VIII's time to Vivienne Westwood's famous 12-inch platform shoe of the 90s, this book is full of description and history of the item we cannot live without. Features the shoes exhibited in the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. Reading the book is almost as good as going there to see the shoes yourself. ... Read more

Reviews (3)

Provides the inside story at the House of Dior
Christian Dior: The Early Years provides the inside story at the House of Dior, from its introduction of the 'New Look' to 1957, upon Dior's sudden death. When Christian Dior presented his first collection, the young designer presented clothing which featured narrow waists and beautiful evening dresses: a new look for the fashion world of the mid1940s. He drew each dress himself and his designs would change the fashion world of his times. The oversized presentation of this volume allows for fullpage displays of his works accompanying a biography of his life and achievements.

A MEMORABLE VISIT WITH DIOR
Born in a small village in Normandy, Christian Dior did not hesitate to disobey a parental injunction to undertake a "serious occupation." He knew what he wanted and fled to Paris where he became a designer at Robert Piguet.

The City of Lights was gray in 1946; there had been the war, German occupation, and rationing. But, luck was with Dior. He met the country's richest and most powerful industrialist, Marcel Boussac, who offered to back the young designer. Space became available at 28-30 Avenue Montaigne, an address well known to fashion aficionados today.

In 1947 Dior introduced his first collection, and the world was ready for his innovative return to the feminine figure with narrow waists, long skirts, and an attractive bustline. The rest, as they say, is history.

All interested in the world of fashion will delight in this detailed history of the workings of Dior's fashion house, and the remarkable people who worked for him in developing a boutique and perfume which would enjoy worldwide acclaim. Also included are stories of his famous clients, such as Marlene Dietrich, Lauren Bacall, Rita Hayworth, Ingrid Bergman, and the Duchess of Windsor.

Enriched with some 100 illustrations this keepsake volume concludes with "Monsieur Dior's Fashion Vocabulary" and a timeline noting events after Dior's death in 1957 to the present day.

- Gail Cooke

World-class achievements in clothing & style
Christian Dior: The Early Years 1947-1957 by Esmeralda de Rethy (daughter of Princess Liliane of Belgium who was one of Christian Dior's very first clients) and fashion historian Jean-Louis Perreau is an incredible, superbly illustrated and informative coffee table book providing a vivid fashion record perfectly capturing the founding of an empire of style in the post-World War II decade. Full-page photographs, some color, some black and white, many nearly half a century old, adorn the pages along with Dior's original sketches and commentary. The text traces the travails, efforts, and world-class achievements in clothing, style, and love of life in this high society treasury. Christian Dior is very highly recommended reading for students of 20th Century fashion history in general, and the influential contributions of Christian Dior in particular. ... Read more

Book Description

Clothing and accessories in the middle ages functioned socially as status symbols, counted economically as portable wealth, and signified metaphorically the wearer's spiritual condition. Chaucer's costume descriptions suggest all of these connotations and more. This book presents the first sustained literary analysis of the meanings inherent in the costumes of Chaucer's secular pilgrims, illuminating the extent of their (non)conformity in their dress to fourteenth-century occupational, socio-political, and religious norms. The author discusses the significance of individual fabrics, dyes, accessories, garments, and assembled costumes, and explains technical details and specialist vocabularies for cloth-making, clothing, accessories and armor, drawing on a wealth of contemporary evidence including wills, household inventories, wardrobe accounts, manuscript illuminations and church decoration.LAURA F. HODGES has a doctorate from Rice University in medieval literature and an undergraduate degree in clothing and textiles from Auburn University; she has taught English literature for many years. As an independent scholar, she specialises in the semiotics of textiles and costume in literature. ... Read more

Amazon.com

A long, long time ago in a galaxy far, far away, the future began. The future of fashion, that is. Of course, it wasn't quite so long ago (it was the 1970s), and it wasn't quite so far away (it was Milan, Italy). Right there and then, the world witnessed the birth of the sports coat. This one jacket spawned the beginnings of casual dress and semi-androgynous fashion. This may not seem so radical now, but think about what came before. Look back to the Vogue magazines of the mid-20th century: the clothes were spectacular and elegant with very fitted waists, skirts with crinolines, crisp lines in men's suits. It was a severe and dramatic look; the body was very contained, almost sculpted by the clothes. But the times were changing, and comfort was coming into its own, explicit in the hippie wares of the 1960s.

Along came Italian designer Giorgio Armani. He fused the softness of jeans and ponchos with more convention, and built a fashion empire from the deconstruction of the shape-shifting suits of the 1940s and '50s. Fashion publisher Patrick McCarthy explains, "His mission, a rather democratic mission at that, has been to return elegance to clothing without abandoning the ease and comfort that crept in during the 1960s." Armani, the catalog accompanying the exhibit at New York's Guggenheim Museum, showcases the designs of this now very famous fashion insider. From sportswear to glamour, the book traces the history and styles of Armani's last three decades. Chapters range from ideas about gender, world culture, and architecture to a most interesting essay on Armani's relationship with cinema (his rise to fame was very tied to the release of the film American Gigolo). The photographs range from magazine advertising and billboards to family and celebrity pictures to lineups of Armani-clothed mannequins. -- J.P. Cohen ... Read more

Reviews (1)

Comprehensive Historical Reference
This is not a typical fashion tome. The authors have traced the historical influences of Mr. Armani as well as validlly documenting his contribution to history (both in terms of fashion and in sociological influence). The photographs are well chosen and show the broad scope of his work. The detailed description accompanying the photographs of the actual museum exhibts are informative and succinct. One unfortunate choice was to include blurbs by celebrities. These comments offer nothing in the way of understanding Mr. Armani's work and are unnecessary. That minor annoyance withstanding, this volume is a valuable addition to any library. ... Read more

Book Description

One of fashion's great icons, Bill Blass transformed American chic into the single most important influence on contemporary fashion. Favored by First Ladies, celebrities, and women of style, his sophisticated gowns and impeccable suits embody modern sophistication.

As exquisitely tailored and visually extravagant as a Blass ensemble, this impressive volume features over 100 new photographs and a stunning array of historical images by such notables as Richard Avedon, Irving Penn, Horst, and Guy Bourdin, in addition to Blass's own sketches. Published to accompany a major retrospective of the designer's 50-year career, it has been created with Blass's full cooperation, and every page reflects his exceptional taste. This is the book Blass fans have been waiting for. ... Read more